Fears about food safety in the United States run rampant.
Instances of food contamination during the manufacturing process or food
poisoning often make national headlines.
In "Eat, Drink, and Be Wary: How Unsafe is Our Food?" veteran journalist Charles M. Duncan proves these fears are not unfounded. Bit by bit, he examines the "scope of each dangerous issue," the reasons why the government has failed to protect consumers, and the consequences of such lax oversight.
Contamination can affect every "phase of our food chain, from the wheat and corn fields, grazing cattle, slaughterhouses, egg farms and dairies to our oceans and bays." Global imports generally do not get properly or sufficiently inspected either.
The FDA, for example, inspects less than two percent of foods shipped from China. Meanwhile, more than half of Chinese food processing and packaging firms regularly fail that country's own safety inspections.
Chapters on items such as produce, poultry and eggs highlight similar themes. According to Duncan, the American government drags its feet and occasionally keeps secret public information about enforcement, closures and seizures. It protects big businesses at the expense of individuals.
Subsequent discussions on milk, seafood and processed meats strike cautionary tones as well. Cases of fish fraud are especially worrisome.
Though not the most optimistic - or appetizing, for that matter - volume on modern-day food production, Duncan's work is comprehensive. Readers concerned with the safety and reliability of their foods will certainly appreciate his efforts.
(A version of this review appeared originally at Publishers Weekly.)